It’s the winter of 1995 and the North Shore is taking a beating. Biggest swell in five years. Most of Oahu is unrideable, but for the deranged and death-adverse, there’s two options: Waimea Bay, or ...

For Laird Hamilton, the hard-charging surfer known for “The Heaviest Wave” ever ridden at Teahupo’o, basically inventing foiling, and pioneering tow-in surfing, the blessings and burdens of the human ...