[Editor’s note: This essay first appeared in the “Chapters of Our Lives” issue of PREMIUM Magazine, which featured personal storytelling.] South Orange County, 1966 “They’re showing that surf film,” ...

Mike Hynson, a California surfer whose globe-trotting hunt for the perfect wave in the documentary “The Endless Summer” made him an ambassador of 1960s cool with sea-slicked blond hair and a ...

It was a worldly journey during a time when such a feat seemed impossible to many. Dick Metz, who grew up on the sand in Laguna Beach and was an early-era surfer long before the masses showed up to ...