For the last dinner of my trip — and my last "tea," or dinner, in London — I wanted a classic "chippy tea." My food guide for the evening, Laine, and I debated: Indian or fish. I'd already had two Indian meals, so we went with the fish. And since I'll be adding Poppies Fish & Chips to the new edition of my London guidebook, it was important that I actually eat there. With Laine's help, we did it right — complete with my chippy wally. (In southern England, a large gherkin pickled in vinegar and s